After two and a half days in the Côte de Beaune, I headed north to the Côte de Nuits to visit Bertrand Devillard and his son Amaury at the cellars of Domaine de Perdrix in Gevrey-Chambertin.
The Devillard family owns three separate domaines. The bulk of the vineyards are in the Côte Chalonaise, consisting of Château de Chamirey in Mercurey (91 acres), Domaine de la Ferté in Givry (7.4 acres) and Domaine des Perdrix in the Côte de Nuits (30 acres).
The Perdrix wines are modern in style. After sorting, the grapes are de-stemmed. There’s no pumping and the extraction comes from pneumatic pigeage (punching down) of the floating cap of grape skins and solids. There’s a good dose of new oak, but the wines are always pure, with lush fruit flavors and velvety textures.
The 2006s were still in various stages of malolactic fermentation and therefore difficult to taste in some cases. It was interesting to sample the Nuits-St.-Georges Aux Perdrix, a premier cru from the southern portion of the Nuits vineyards in Prémeaux. The holdings consist of three parcels, the youngest planted in 1972, one planted in 1957 and the oldest from 1922.
The wine from the youngest vines is very elegant and silky. The 50-year old parcel shows darker fruit flavors and greater density. The oldest parcel offers rich black fruits, concentration and complexity with a long finish.
The Devillards also presented a range of 2005s from all the estates, including two new wines destined for the United States under the Le Renarde label. The Bourgogne Blanc is made with purchased grapes from Mâcon-Villages and the Côte Chalonnaise and the Bourgogne Rouge grapes are sourced from the Côte Chalonnaise and Côte de Beaune.
There was also the terrific Château de Chamirey Mercurey Blanc 2005, a rich and concentrated Chardonnay with peach, lemon and mineral flavors. It’s a sentimental favorite of mine; I sold a lot of it when I worked at Burgundy Wine Company in the early ’90s.
Among the reds, the Mercurey Les Ruelles 2005 features an animal and wild fruit character, with freshness and a firm structure. The Givry Servoisine 2005 is juicy and intense, with cherry and red berry notes and fine length.
The Nuits-St.-Georges Aux Perdrix 2005 combines elegance with a rich, sweet black cherry flavor and great balance. The Echezeaux is deep, rich and firmly structured, with a succulent aspect, but needs five to seven years to really show all its facets.
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