Wednesday found me back in Meursault for a first visit to Domaine Remi Jobard. In addition to the 20-acre domaine, Jobard started a small negociant operation, Jobard-Chabloz, in 2002.
The negoce wines were still finishing their malolactic fermentations, so it was difficult to taste some of the samples. To get an idea of what the finished wine would be like, most of the range was tasted from both new barrel and 2-year barrel. Jobard's wines are clean and elegant in style.
He keeps his whites in barrel for one year then transfers them all to tank. The practice of batonnage changes from year to year, depending on the acidity levels and the ripeness of the vintage.
“2006 is a year that’s flattering, I believe," says Jobard. "The wines will be very open young. The vintage in general has great balance and is very elegant in the mouth.”
The domaine wines had finished their malos and were showing much better. (The wines are in different cellars.) There is a very good Bourgogne Blanc, from five parcels that all touch the Meursault appellation. The Meursault Sous la Velle fills the mouth with honeyed fruit, while En Luraule displays floral, hazelnut and honey notes with freshness. “It’s the most ‘typical’ Meursault in my cellar," says Jobard. "It fits the description of Meursault that you read in books.”
There’s more density in the Les Chevalières, and the Poruzots is refined and elegant. I find the Genevrières a bit riper and more exotic, with a spicy quality. It builds to a long finish. By contrast, the Charmes is more open and supple.
Jobard began working with his father Charles in 1991. He took over the vinification of the whites in 1992, followed by the reds in 1997. Like the whites, Jobard’s reds show purity. In addition to the Bourgogne, he makes a Monthélie Les Vignes Rondes, Monthelie Champs Fulliots and elegant Volnay Les Santenots.
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