I found a bottle of 2003 Pavillon Blanc du Château Margaux in my cellar yesterday and I decided to open it with Piero and Albiera Antinori, who came over for dinner. I have to say that the white of Château Margaux has never been very exciting until recently. I think that the technical director of the château, Paul Pontailler, has only recently put his heart into making a serious white at the property.
The 2003 was rich and round with lots of creamy, honey, apple and lemon character. It had just the right amount of new wood on the nose and palate. It was full and fruity with lots of character yet remained fresh and lively. 93 points, non-blind. A lot of past vintages seemed rustic and slightly dull by comparison. It’s 100 percent Sauvignon Blanc, if I remember correctly.
Anyway, the Antinoris enjoyed the wine immensely and it went surprisingly well as an aperitivo with grilled bread topped with chopped tomatoes, garlic and basil and plenty of fresh Tuscan olive oil. It set the tone for a fun dinner.
Among the wines we tasted during the dinner was one from Chile that the Antinoris are making -- Antinori-Matte Albis Maipo Valley 2001. I had only read about it in the magazine and it was outstanding. It is the first vintage they produced. The wine, which is 85 percent Cabernet Sauvignon and 15 percent Carmenère, showed lots of rich jammy fruit with a fascinating fresh herb character that reminded me of tarragon and rosemary in my garden. It was full, velvety and caressing on the palate. Just right now. 92 points, non-blind.
I poured a bottle of 2000 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Le Rocche del Falletto Riserva as well as a bottle of 2001 Casanova di Neri Brunello di Montalcino Cerretalto. They were both perfect wines, even though they were very young. Piero loved them both and said they were great examples of their appellations.
He said that the future in the world of wine is more and more wines that are unique to their provenance, whether they are the perfect Barolo or Brunello, an outstanding Chilean Cabernet and Carmenère blend, or a top Bordeaux white. I couldn’t agree more ...
Geronimo Dotel — dominicanrepublic — June 6, 2007 12:39am ET
James Suckling — — June 6, 2007 1:04pm ET
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