I was thinking about 2005 Bordeaux today for some reason. Maybe it’s because most of the top-name 2006s have not been released on the market as futures, and very few people are interested in the wines, except for wine merchants who have to safeguard their allocations? Who knows?
Anyway, the 2005s are so impressive. I keep thinking about a lunch at Ducru-Beaucaillou a few weeks ago at which the owner, Bruno Borie, poured his 2005 with lamb’s brain-stuffed cauliflower. The wine was still from barrel, but it was so rich and luscious with layers of velvety tannins and spicy, blackberry, mineral and currants aromas and flavors. It was massive, but so in balance. It remains 95-100 but could be on its way to 100. What a wine. Probably best ever from here.
A great vintage in Bordeaux happens when the wine is great from the beginning. I have written this many times, so, sorry if it bores you, but I remember tasting the 1982s from barrel and they were so beautiful and balanced. I remember drinking some 1982 Prieure-Lichine from the barrel for lunch with the late author and wine guru Alexis Lichine, and it was already delicious.
I tasted a number of other legendary Ducrus at the lunch, non-blind, including:
1970: So refined and balanced. This remains one of my favorite1970s with plumb, berry and light cream aromas and flavors. Medium-bodied, with long silky tannins. It’s very, very long and caressing. It’s almost Burgundian in texture. 95 points, non-blind.
1961: The same plum character is there as in the 1970 but there’s a mushroom and tobacco undertone. It’s richer and full, as expected from the great ’61 vintage. Full body, with ultra-silky tannins, it’s dense and powerful still. Plenty of fruit and autumnal, mushroom character in the aftertaste. 96 points, non-blind.
1959: Not quite at the level of the 1961 but why complain. Much of the same plum and mushroom character with dried porcini undertones. It’s full and very fresh still with a bracing acidity on the finish. This doesn’t have the intensity of the ’61 but it’s outstanding quality. 93 points, non-blind.
The obvious question is if I think the 2005 will match or better any of the above legends. I say YES. Granted, I was not around to taste those old bottles when they were young things, but I have a sneaky hunch that they never had the richness and finesse of the 2005. Even if they did, 2005 could very well turn out to be better.
William Delaney — Arlington VA — May 25, 2007 2:28pm ET
Alan West — May 26, 2007 12:10am ET
Joel Morris — delray beach, fl — May 26, 2007 12:34pm ET
Brian Greenglass — Toronto, Canada — May 26, 2007 11:45pm ET
Robert R Mascialino — NY, NY — May 27, 2007 9:39pm ET
James Suckling — — May 28, 2007 2:51am ET
David Allen — Lufkin, Texas — May 28, 2007 8:10am ET
John C Winkelmann — Cincinnai — May 29, 2007 11:46am ET
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