In most Burgundy domaines' cellars, you begin a tasting with a village appellation, if not a Bourgogne. At Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, except when the premier cru Cuvée Duvault-Blochet is made, it’s all grand cru.
“2005 is an excellent year, very well balanced, with good ripeness, and the tannins are very round,” says cellarmaster Bernard Noblet. The wines were racked last November and will be bottled in March. After racking, the lees are reincorporated into the barrels.
The Echézeaux shows a pure black cherry note, very silky and elegant, with a firm underlying structure. The tannins are still assertive, yet this is long and expansive on the finish. The French have a word for the texture, fondue, which literally translates as “melting.”
The Grands-Echézeaux is more structured, with a creamy midpalate, a core of blackberry fruit, spice and a very long finish that indicates its potential.
A fragrant nose marks the Romanée-St.-Vivant, whose floral, raspberry, cherry and spice flavors marry with the elegant profile. This is very harmonious, with a long mineral finish. The Richebourg is generally the most open and opulent wine in the collection, and this is the case today. It’s all silk, with a beam of cherry and exotic spice notes.
The La Tâche displays a gorgeous aroma of blackcurrant, very deep and profound. It’s concentrated, yet classy, building on the palate to a long, long finish. The Romanée-Conti is aromatic and even riper, showing cassis, wild berries and hints of flowers. It’s intense, mouthfilling and long, with supple tannins and great harmony.
In short, this is a stellar range of wines in a great vintage, from one of the Côte d’Or’s top estates.
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