With age comes beauty.
At least you hope so when it comes to cellaring wines.
I drank a couple of terrific Talbott Chardonnays over the weekend, a 2002 Diamond T Estate ($65) and 2003 Cuvée Cynthia ($60), both from Monterey County.
Not really old wines, per se, but these wines, both new releases, show the benefits of bottle age.
Both offered wonderful depth, richness and complexity, a mixture of youthful pear and apple scents woven in with citrus blossom, tropical fruit and honey. There was even a hint of graham cracker on the Cuvée Cynthia finish. The Diamond T has a fascinating touch of butterscotch.
By way of holding you a couple more sentences, I suggest that you check out Talbott’s second label, Logan, and the 2004 Monterey County Sleepy Hollow Vineyard (90 points, $18, 8,900 cases). It shares many of the aforementioned wines’ complexity at about a third of the price
Some people think that Chardonnays with those golden hues and exotic honey, graham cracker, crème brulee, or even marshmallow flavors are overblown and ponderous.
Not me. Not when they’ve got great acidity.
You wouldn’t want to drink those kinds of wines every day, or with every meal, but they are highly distinctive and a real treat on the right occasion.
Folks that write off all aged Chardonnays are often missing the benefits of time in the bottle.
Mark Lewis — Napa — September 18, 2006 8:33pm ET
James Maynard — New Jersey — September 18, 2006 10:18pm ET
Paul Lin — Irvine — September 19, 2006 1:35am ET
Kris Carlson — Delavan, Wisconsin — September 19, 2006 9:49am ET
Tom Fiorillo — Denver, CO — September 19, 2006 10:28am ET
Colin Haggerty — La Jolla, California — September 19, 2006 1:06pm ET
James Laube — Napa, CA — September 19, 2006 1:54pm ET
Bart Sheela — September 19, 2006 3:16pm ET
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