harvey steiman at large archive

November 2006

Star Chef to Leave Fifth Floor

Posted: Nov 30, 2006 9:00am ET

When young chefs have made a splash cooking in someone else's restaurant, having their own place can look so tempting. Especially when friends with money are urging them to take the plunge. Melissa Perello is not so sure, but she's taking some time off to think it over.

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Chefs Feel the Pressure

Posted: Nov 29, 2006 3:32pm ET

Do people expect more from restaurants? Several leading San Francisco chefs said so. They were speaking in a roundtable discussion this week to flog a new Web site featuring their opinions about dining in the Bay area.

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Quince to Upgrade Its Cellar

Posted: Nov 28, 2006 1:01pm ET

What goes with plin ? That will be one of Christie Dufault's key assignments now that she has taken the reins as sommelier at Quince. Plin are tiny ravioli, one of the culinary stars on Piedmont, where they drink Barbera or Dolcetto.

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The Thanksgiving Wine Question

Posted: Nov 21, 2006 12:06pm ET

In the run-up to Thanksgiving every year, it seems, every wine pundit weighs in on what to drink with the Thanksgiving dinner. I tend to shrug it off, having offered my viewpoint dozens of times before.

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A Tart, Puckish History of Modern American Eating

Posted: Nov 17, 2006 2:21pm ET

We take a lot for granted. Grocery stores virtually anywhere in America sell fresh cilantro, heirloom tomatoes, extra-virgin olive oil and balsamic vinegar. Restaurants across the land cook fresh food well and serve an amazing array of vegetables.

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What Am I? A Cork-Taint Magnet?

Posted: Nov 14, 2006 4:54pm ET

When I was on my anti-cork soapbox recently, one reader wrote to ask how it can be that I find cork-tainted wines so often when he seldom does. I thought of that again when I endured yet another frustrating experience over what should have been a nice meal.

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Remembering Ed Bradley

Posted: Nov 10, 2006 12:29pm ET

Ed Bradley, who died this week at 65 of leukemia, was best known for his 25 years of sterling journalistic work on television's 60 Minutes. He also had an immense love of fine wine. In a 1994 interview with me, he described how he turned one bedroom in his seven-room New York apartment into a wine cellar.

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Behind A to Z's Purchase of Rex Hill

Posted: Nov 8, 2006 12:18pm ET

When Bill Hatcher left his job managing Domaine Drouhin for the Drouhin family of Burgundy in 2000, he didn't know what he was going to do next. He just didn't want to run a big winery any more. Guess what? He just took on the biggest in Oregon.

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The Australia Frost: What Does It Mean?

Posted: Nov 6, 2006 1:01pm ET

Devastating spring frosts are expected to reduce Australia's wine production for 2007 by as much as 50 million cases. Given Australia's looming surplus of 100 million cases of wine, that might seem fortuitous.

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The Things You Learn Hanging Out With Chefs

Posted: Nov 2, 2006 5:31pm ET

I spent last weekend in Napa Valley in the company of chefs. Lots of them. I was one of two non-chef judges for the "Almost Famous" chef competition. Sponsored by S. Pellegrino, the mineral water brand, the participants are students at top North American cooking schools.

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