Greg Ralston, longtime managing director of Chateau Montelena in Napa Valley, has some ideas for what should happen with Evening Land Vineyards, the winery that burst onto the scene less than four years ago with some spectacular Oregon Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs. As the company grew quickly, he believes, it might have dropped the ball in California and Burgundy, where it also makes wine.
I have been ambivalent about the foie gras ban that took effect in California July 1. It doesn’t affect my food choices, as I gave up the fatty delicacy years ago—a double whammy of high cholesterol and a tendency to gout on my part. And while I am generally with the animal rights folks when it comes to clubbing baby seals and exposing inhumane farming practices, I wonder whether this controversy should have risen to the level it’s reached.
Rummaging around the cellar for something interesting for dinner with old friends, I brought up my last bottle of Kendall-Jackson Syrah Durell Vineyard 1986. It had held up beautifully, wowing everyone at the table.
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