harvey steiman at large archive

October 2010

What Is Michelin Trying to Tell Us?

Chez Panisse out, wine country resort zooms to the top
Posted: Oct 29, 2010 10:00am ET

Does the demotion of Chez Panisse to no stars in the new 2011 Michelin Guide for San Francisco and environs mean that an era is over, or is it simply an acknowledgment that the restaurant ain't what it used to be?

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Pacific Northwest Battens Down

Cold, rain affect both Oregon and Washington in 2010
Posted: Oct 25, 2010 2:23pm ET

Despite cold temperatures and rain, vintners in the Oregon and Washington are optimistic that the 2010 vintage will be memorable.

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Where's the Oak?

Oregon Pinots show little of the flavor, and that's OK with me
Posted: Oct 21, 2010 2:00pm ET

I discovered a missing element in the 2008 vintage of Oregon Pinot Noir. The red wines were missing new oak, allowing the fruit, mineral and earthy flavors to shine.

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Pasta on the Upswing

Is it my imagination, or is it better than ever?
Posted: Oct 15, 2010 10:45am ET

We are living in a golden age of pasta here in the U.S. It wasn’t that long ago that getting a good, properly prepared plate of pasta in a restaurant was a rare and wonderful thing. On my current visit to New York, it seems as though I encountered a great pasta dish every day as I dined at Maialino, Marea, Lincoln and more.

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Tasting Australian History

Six decades with Peter Lehmann
Posted: Oct 12, 2010 11:08am ET

Winemaker Peter Lehmann, who just turned 80, is considered a hero in Australian wine circles. It’s not just the wines in a career that spans more than 60 years, but what he did in the 1980s to rescue a host of Barossa Valley growers who likely would have gone out of business if he hadn’t started Peter Lehmann Wines in 1980.

Today’s economic woes pale in comparison to what was happening then. The oversupply was so bad that the government instituted what was called a “vine-pull scheme.” Many growers actually did pull out mature vines, but others realized that the plan only paid growers not to produce grapes for several years. Those who could ride it out took the government’s money, let their vineyards go wild, then started retraining the vines after the hiatus. And that is why so much old-vine Shiraz and Grenache still exists in the Barossa today.

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How Tweet It Is

Dipping a toe into the Twitter world
Posted: Oct 7, 2010 10:36am ET

I signed up for Twitter. I'll tweet interesting wine and food tidbits, but what exactly would you like to hear from me?

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Chiarello Likes Fish for Fizz

Chef’s "Angry Tuna" makes sparkling wine sing
Posted: Oct 5, 2010 10:41am ET

Matching food with sparkling wine presents little challenge. But I never thought of the one chef Michael Chiarello recommends. Tuna crudo, the Italian version of sashimi? Sure. But spicy Calabrian chiles? Fried garlic and basil? Damned if it didn’t work perfectly with an elegant Schramsberg Blanc de Blancs North Coast 2006 when we tried it earlier this year. Check out this video of the preparation, as well as the full recipe.

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