Chianti has come a long way since the days of fiasco bottles in straw baskets. From what I saw on my recent trip to Tuscany, the best is yet to come. I spent a week in the Chianti Classico area visiting wineries from San Casciano to Castelnuovo Berardenga. This is Italy’s Sangiovese country, though other varieties are planted and authorized for up to 20 percent of the blend in the Chianti Classico D.O.C.G. Here are my impressions of new efforts and wines at Frescobaldi, Fontodi, Barone Ricasoli and others.