
On each of my visits to Burgundy I try to schedule appointments with domaines or houses that I have not previously visited. On one day of my most recent trip there were three such estates on my itinerary: Nicolas Rossignol in Volnay, Etienne Sauzet in Puligny-Montrachet and Domaine de Courcel in Pommard.
Three factors joust for influence in any wine from Burgundy: the terroir , the growing season and the winemaker. The terroir is constant; if the vintage or the winemaker dominates, the wine loses. When all three harmonize, the wine approaches perfection.
One of my last visits in Burgundy was with Etienne de Montille of Domaine de Montille , Deux Montille (the négociant business he runs with his sister Alix) and Domaine du Château de Puligny-Montrachet , where he is the estate manager.
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