I was fortunate that Maison Joseph Drouhin president and CEO Frédérick Drouhin could see me last Friday afternoon. It was the last appointment I confirmed. As I approached Drouhin's offices on the Rue d’Enfer, I anticipated tasting through a range of 2006s.
Friday morning, early, found me at Domaine Bernard Morey in Chassagne-Montrachet. I knew some of the wines well from my days at Burgundy Wine Company in the early 1990s. Thomas Morey, son of the current proprietor, did a stage there not long after I had joined Wine Spectator.
On each of my visits to Burgundy, I try to schedule appointments with domaines or houses that I have not previously visited. It so happened that last Thursday there were three such estates on my itinerary: Nicolas Rossignol in Volnay, Etienne Sauzet in Puligny-Montrachet and Domaine de Courcel in Pommard.
Tasting at Louis Jadot is like a lesson in Burgundy. There is an extensive range of wines, from Chablis to the Maconnais, with many serious appellations of the Côte d’Or represented in both red and white.
Wednesday morning I drove to Vosne-Romanée for a visit with Lalou Bize-Leroy at Domaine Leroy. Tasting chez Leroy is an interesting look at the characters of several villages, both in the Côte de Beaune and Côte de Nuits, and from village to grand cru in the appellation hierarchy.
Tuesday afternoon I was in Vosne-Romanée to visit Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, then to Beaune for a look at the 2006s from négociant Alex Gambal. One of my favorite stops in January is the Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, where the wines are strictly grands crus , from some of the best terroirs.
[ Note: Bruce Sanderson continues to report from Burgundy, where he is visiting domaines and tasting barrel samples from the 2006 harvest. ] With the addition of Bernard Hervet to the Maison Faiveley team, Erwan Faiveley is expanding the range and the fine-tuning the winemaking.
[ Note: Bruce Sanderson continues to report from Burgundy, where he is visiting domaines and tasting barrel samples from the 2006 harvest. ] My last appointment Monday was at Bouchard Père & Fils , where winemaker Philippe Prost and managing director Stéphane Follin-Arbelet showed me a range of 27 reds and 14 whites.
[ Note: Bruce Sanderson continues to report from Burgundy, where he is visiting domaines and tasting barrel samples from the 2006 vintage. ] What I keep hearing is that 2006 is a “cool” vintage. What I interpret from that is the weather pattern was cool and the wines reflect the late-season ripening that Burgundy depends on more years than not out of a decade.
I’m back in Burgundy for a second look at the 2006 reds and whites. My first visit last June was an initial impression of the vintage as a whole. Now that the wines are at the end of their elevage, if not already bottled, I will be looking more closely at individual wines.
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