The hills of Collio in northeastern Italy are an awe-inspiring patchwork of steep, terraced vineyards, forests and fruit orchards that wind through 25 ancient towns along the Slovenian border. The area is a dizzying blend of microclimates, grape varieties and culture at the dividing line between Italy’s Friuli region and central Europe.
For centuries, the border between countries has moved one way or another. Among families, many here speak Slovenian, others Italian and still others regional dialects. But when you ask someone how they identify, the answer is invariably, “I am from here.”