Franz Weninger returned from a trip to California in 1999 amused that everyone there was emulating French winemaking. But back at his family winery in Burgenland, Austria, he realized his father was doing just that. French yeasts, French enzymes, French knowledge. "Oh my god, he's not making Austrian wine, he's copying Bordeaux!" Weninger thought. Many emerging wine regions were doing the same. However, in the last decade, Burgenland has found its bearings, with help from its star grape: Blaufränkisch.