Where is California wine going? In my opinion, we are at a place where the path of California winemaking starts to fork. At the same time that technology invades every aspect of grapegrowing and winemaking, more and more producers embrace less-scientific means like biodynamics and are actually turning the clock back in the winery, opting for more traditional and even primitive methods, such as whole cluster and wild yeast fermentations.
“Do you like Assyrtiko?” “What is that? It sounds Greek.” That’s what I said five years ago, when I first heard about this indigenous white grape, which can be traced backed to 1000 B.C. in Santorini.
I am a huge fan of old white Burgundy, but nowadays I am afraid of buying or cellaring these wines from the vintages of the 1990s. Over the last year or so, I have discovered that a large number of bottles of white Burgundies from the '90s suffer from a phenomenon known as premature oxidation.
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