harvey steiman

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Blogs  :  Harvey Steiman At Large

Five Vintages of Hill of Grace

Tasting wines from four decades of Henschke's iconic Shiraz

Posted: November 22, 2013  By Harvey Steiman

When I could not get to Australia for the Henschke winery's massive 40-vintage tasting of its signature wine earlier this year, the iconic Shiraz Hill of Grace, Stephen Henschke offered to bring a few of the older vintages to me when he came for the New York Wine Experience.

Here are my scores and tasting notes on the Henschke Hill of Grace 1973, 1986, 1990, 2001 and 2008.

Blogs  :  Harvey Steiman At Large

Renewing the Original Microbrew

The ongoing story of New Albion Ale, the beer that started it all

Posted: November 18, 2013  By Harvey Steiman

These days we take American craft beers and microbrews for granted. They're everywhere. Even at places other than baseball parks, I have been known to sip a Sierra Nevada Pale Ale, Samuel Adams Boston Lager or Pyramid Hefeweizen with dinner when the wine offerings don't wow me.

The choices we have today started with New Albion, an idiosyncratic microbrewery in Sonoma County, a malty drop amidst a sea of wine.

Nov. 15, 2013 Issue  :  News

Torbreck Founder Leaves Australian Winery

Posted: November 15, 2013  By Harvey Steiman

Nov. 15, 2013 Issue  :  Features

The New & The Noteworthy

Six producers taking Cabernet in new directions

Posted: November 15, 2013  By Aaron Romano, Harvey Steiman, Augustus Weed

Blogs  :  Harvey Steiman At Large

Memories of Charlie Trotter

Chicago's legendary chef showed the way for many others

Posted: November 7, 2013  By Harvey Steiman

The news Tuesday stunned the food and wine world. Charlie Trotter, the legendary Chicago chef who, as much as anyone, defined modern fine dining in America, was dead. At 54, how could this be?

It turns out he had a secret. He had been diagnosed with an aneurysm deep inside his brain, according to friend and sommelier Larry Stone in Chicago Tribune's obituary. It was inoperable. But he refused to use his illness to play for sympathy. Instead, he announced just after midnight on New Year's 2012 that he would be closing his restaurant after a 25-year run to pursue an advanced degree in philosophy and travel with his wife.

Oct. 31, 2013 Issue  :  Dining Out

Tickets and Pakta

The Adrià brothers of Spain's El Bulli branch out with hot spots in the Catalonian capital

Posted: October 31, 2013  By Harvey Steiman

Blogs  :  Harvey Steiman At Large

When Did Clean Become a Dirty Word?

A spin through the Wine Experience proves good wine doesn't need funk for character

Posted: October 29, 2013  By Harvey Steiman

Am I the only person dismayed at how the discourse about wine seems to have devolved into posturing about whether this particular wine is "natural" enough, or that one has enough "authenticity"?

Blogs  :  Harvey Steiman At Large

Oregon Pinot Noir 2011

A meditation on finesse and transparency

Posted: October 18, 2013  By Harvey Steiman

The 2011 Pinot Noirs from Oregon are going to polarize wine drinkers. Vintners will tell you how much they love their 2011s. They expect that those who value deftness, lightness and delicacy will too. But if you want consistency, clearly delineated flavors and a sense of presence, you might be disappointed.

Oct. 15, 2013 Issue  :  People

Tom Colicchio

A serious cook juggles fine restaurants and reality TV

Posted: October 15, 2013  By Harvey Steiman

Blogs  :  Harvey Steiman At Large

Lessons in Opening Mature Wines

Be prepared—you never know what you might find

Posted: October 14, 2013  By Harvey Steiman

Whenever I plan to serve older bottles of wine, I always pull an extra bottle or two from the cellar, even if they aren't the same wine, to be ready in case the first disappoints. Individual wines often don't age as well as expected, or hoped. And inevitably, cork taint or maderization from some percentage of bad corks will force you to pour away some bottles.

All this is part of the fun of opening older wines you've saved for a while. And that's why, when my Welsh friend Mr. Jones finally accepted my longstanding invitation to raid my wine cellar on one of his visits to San Francisco, I opened four bottles for the four of us to drink over dinner (not counting the sparkling wine aperitif): Gaja Barbaresco 1986, Quintarelli Valpolicella 1982, Louis Latour Chambertin 2003 and Beaux Frères Pinot Noir 2002.

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