Posted: July 21, 2014 By Harvey Steiman
One key moment stands out when I was researching my Wine Spectator Aug. 31 issue profile of Eric Ripert, chef and partner of New York's fabled fish restaurant, Le Bernardin. It was the creative meeting.
Ripert and his top-ranking chefs meet daily in a small conference room, away from the hustle and bustle of the kitchen, to perfect their ideas for new dishes. The menu is constantly in flux. Anyone in the kitchen can present an idea, then work out the details until the results get the approval of Ripert and his lieutenants. They bring trays full of the latest iteration of the dish, along with some options they are considering, all in an effort to keep things fresh and lively.
Posted: July 16, 2014 By Harvey Steiman
Wine Spectator editor at large Harvey Steiman offers his recipe for Not Pesto, a basil-and-pine nut puree perfect over sliced heirloom tomatoes and fresh mozzarella or burrata and paired with a crisp rosé.
Posted: July 8, 2014 By Harvey Steiman
The Washington wine label Wines of Substance was invented in 2006 by a couple of Walla Walla hotshots—Waters' winemaker Jamie Brown and Greg Harrington, founder of Gramercy Cellars. It had a promising early run. Some of the wines hit 90 points on the Wine Spectator 100-point scale. The black-and-white label design emulated the periodic table of the elements you might recall from chemistry class, assigning two-letter symbols to the grape varieties used to make the wines, priced at $14 to $20.
Posted: June 27, 2014 By Harvey Steiman
American Wine Story is a fascinating, gritty and ultimately bittersweet movie about the people who give up their day jobs to make wine in unexpected places across the United States. It focuses on the story of Brooks Wines, a small but fast-growing winery in Oregon founded in 1998, and the outpouring of support from others in the industry on the untimely death of its founder in 2004.
Posted: June 20, 2014 By Harvey Steiman
Ripeness and alcohol continue to polarize wine drinkers. The prevailing trend almost everywhere these days is toward more moderate levels of alcohol, but a highly vocal wing still finds too much alcohol in too many wines.
It's the sugar in the grapes, of course, that ferments into alcohol, so winegrowers are seeking ways to get enough ripeness to deliver pleasurable flavors without the sugar getting out of hand. Finding a cool climate can do it. But sometimes a cool vintage is a mixed blessing, as my recent experience sampling 2011 Washington reds demonstrates.
Posted: June 15, 2014 By Harvey Steiman
Posted: June 10, 2014 By Harvey Steiman
I moved to Miami from Los Angeles in 1969 to work for the Miami Herald, my first job on a big-city newspaper. From our apartment a few blocks from the office, my wife and I strolled the neighborhood and discovered a familiar sight to former Angelenos, but unusual then in Miami. A Chinese restaurant had just opened.
Hooked, we went often, and when I became the restaurant critic at the Herald I wrote up Tiger Tiger Teahouse. It became hugely popular. Regulars, we got to know the family, who often shared with us whatever they were cooking for themselves. When James Beard came to Miami to teach a cooking class, knowing that he had been raised in Oregon by a Chinese amah, I asked Mr. Tom to cook some of the family dishes for him. Tears streamed down Beard's face as he devoured pork trotters in hoisin sauce. Just like home, he said.
Posted: June 6, 2014 By Harvey Steiman
One sure way to start an argument when tasting with others is to decry the effects of the yeast organism brettanomyces in a wine. Someone is bound to roll eyes and proclaim the opposite. I know. It's happened to me. A lot.
But if it takes an academically trained pro to detect brettanomyces, should it matter for ordinary wine drinkers? I say it does, and here's why.
Posted: May 31, 2014 By Harvey Steiman
Passionate about wine? Wine Spectator magazine is looking for an enthusiastic copy editor in the New York office.
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