harvey steiman

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Blogs  :  Harvey Steiman At Large

How Ripe Is Right?

Drilling down into the ideal alcohol kerfuffle

Posted: February 26, 2014  By Harvey Steiman

Alcohol, a necessary byproduct of fermenting ripe grapes, seems to have polarized the wine community these past few years. Most wine drinkers seem to like ripe flavors in wine, and don't mind if alcohol levels are higher, but a vocal minority wants to change that. There's even an organization of vintners in California, In Pursuit of Balance, which stumps for lower levels of alcohol.

This dichotomy jumped out at me when I read reactions to a recent study that reported consumer responses to Cabernet Sauvignons made at different alcohol levels. The study, conducted in Sydney, presented 104 consumers ages 18 to 65 who drink red wine at least once a week with five different Cabernet Sauvignons harvested sequentially, with alcohol levels varying from 12 percent up to 15.5 percent, and asked them to give each wine a preference score on a scale of 0 to 9. Ratings for each of the five wines on nearly two dozen sensory attributes pertaining to appearance, aroma and palate were determined in a separate panel comprising 12 trained tasters from the Australian Wine and Research Institute (AWRI).

Blogs  :  Harvey Steiman At Large

A Twist on the Aging Question

Screw caps would reduce the risk of aging red wines

Posted: February 24, 2014  By Harvey Steiman

When will the wine world come to its senses about how wine ages under screw caps? My good friend James Laube, who champions twist-offs (as he prefers to call them) didn't mention the possibilities in his recent tirades against the risks of aging wine too long. But I will.

Blogs  :  Harvey Steiman At Large

In Latest Change, Evening Land's Winemaker Says Adieu

Isabelle Meunier leaves; partner Rajat Parr says Burgundy's Dominique Lafon will play larger role

Posted: February 19, 2014  By Harvey Steiman

The changes continue at Evening Land in Oregon, one of the state's top-rated producers of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Wine Spectator has learned that Isabelle Meunier has left the winery where she has been overseeing winemaking and viticulture since Mark Tarlov founded it in 2007.

News & Features  :  News

Rajat Parr, Charles Banks and Sashi Moorman Join Oregon's Evening Land Winery

Sommelier, investor and winemaker purchase an interest in the promising winery and take over management

Posted: February 3, 2014  By Harvey Steiman

Blogs  :  Harvey Steiman At Large

The Man Who Turned Against Cabernet

Antonio Mastroberardino changed more than his own region in Italy

Posted: January 31, 2014  By Harvey Steiman

He did not seem like a revolutionary when I met Antonio Mastroberardino, who died this week at age 86, nearly 30 years ago. He carried himself with almost a regal bearing. Quiet-spoken, he matter-of-factly explained why he chose to focus his family's vineyards and wines on grapes hardly anyone on this side of the Atlantic knew: Fiano, Greco and, especially, Aglianico.

His son Carlo, who was with him on a tour of the U.S., really did look like a firebrand, intense, vigorous, single-mindedly pushing the notion that his region's historic grape varieties could and should stand on their own. It's difficult to underestimate the importance of that approach.

Blogs  :  Harvey Steiman At Large

Aussie Turnaround Looks to Be Real

Knowledgeable crowd at WineAustralia trade tasting encouraged by wide range of wines

Posted: January 22, 2014  By Harvey Steiman

Australian wine is gaining the attention of American wine drinkers again, significantly that of the gatekeepers: wine merchants, sommeliers and writers.

The reasons for Australia's slide in these parts from 2008 to 2012 probably involve some combination of their own overreach and a wine-drinking public's fascination with some other Next Big Thing. Whatever, every Aussie winemaker I've met trying to sell their wares in the U.S. this past year has spoken of doors opening that had been shut to them.

Blogs  :  Harvey Steiman At Large

Custom and Wine: The Pizza Conundrum

What eating pizza can teach us about wine

Posted: January 14, 2014  By Harvey Steiman

Victor Hazan's late wife, Marcella, whose cookbooks have afforded me no end of pleasure, taught many of us about Italian food. Victor often supplied the wine-half of the equation, but he was no stranger to foodways himself. Since Marcella's death last year, he has been writing occasional posts to thousands of followers of her Facebook account. At first he penned eloquent reminiscences about Marcella. Lately he has been commenting on cuisine.

This past week he stirred up a bit of a reflexive firestorm among his Facebook friends. Inspired by a photo of New York's new mayor, Bill di Blasio, eating pizza with a knife and fork, he waded into the age-old debate over the best way to consume Italy's signature flatbread.

Dec. 31, 2013 Issue  :  Features

Hot Spots in Houston, Montréal and San Francisco

Posted: December 31, 2013  By Alison Napjus, Harvey Steiman, Esther Mobley

Dec. 31, 2013 Issue  :  Tasting Reports

A Place for Syrah

Washington excels with Rhône-style bottlings, but top versions may be hard to find

Posted: December 31, 2013  By Harvey Steiman

News & Features  :  News

Domaine Drouhin Buys 279-Acre Vineyard in Oregon

Willamette Valley winery nearly doubles its estate vineyard holdings with purchase in Eola-Amity Hills

Posted: December 23, 2013  By Harvey Steiman

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