harvey steiman

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Blogs  :  Harvey Steiman At Large

Is That Apricot in My Pinot Noir?

Looking for the unexpected when tasting wine

Posted: September 4, 2014  By Harvey Steiman

As I tasted through an impressive array of 2012 Willamette Valley Pinot Noirs last week, my nose picked up unexpected aromatics. In one I smelled apricots. In another, unmistakable nuances of pineapple and coconut. Fresh lime zest informed the character of a third red, an expression of the wine's lively acid balance. These are attributes most of us associate with white wines.

Pinot Noir famously and notoriously produces unusual flavors and aromatics. The usual catalog of red and black fruits, earth and spice notes may not be all that's there. As a wine critic, I should home in on what distinguishes the wine before me from all the others. It could be structural, or textural. Or an unexpected flavor note.

Aug. 31, 2014 Issue  :  Features

Saison

A wine supernova in San Francisco

Posted: August 31, 2014  By Harvey Steiman

Aug. 31, 2014 Issue  :  Tasting Reports

Overachievers Down Under

Posted: August 31, 2014  By Harvey Steiman

Aug. 31, 2014 Issue  :  People

Singing the Sea

Chef Eric Ripert uses the ocean's bounty to create beauty and harmony at Le Bernardin

Posted: August 31, 2014  By Harvey Steiman

Aug. 31, 2014 Issue  :  Tasting Reports

Cabernet On the Rise

Shiraz still dominates Australian exports, but the country's No. 2 red is coming on strong

Posted: August 31, 2014  By Harvey Steiman

Blogs  :  Harvey Steiman At Large

Looking back at Two Hands' Ares

After a dozen vintages, this Australian Shiraz has the goods


Posted: August 22, 2014  By Harvey Steiman

I recently had a chance to blind-taste all 12 finished and bottled vintages of Two Hands Ares, one of Australia's top Shiraz, with owner Michael Twelftree at Aspen's Casa Tua restaurant, with the help of sommelier Jill Zimorski.

Blogs  :  Harvey Steiman At Large

Two Offbeat Wines Please a Crowd

Using insider knowledge to find a wine list's sweet spot

Posted: August 6, 2014  By Harvey Steiman

The wine list was in my hands, often the case when a bunch of us go out to dine. Comes with the work title. Champagne would have been easy to start with, but I was looking for something closer to $50 (not $100) that might be fun and delicious, and not an obvious choice. Two offbeat selections—a white from Oregon and a Nebbiolo from Italy—fit the bill.

July 31, 2014 Issue  :  Features

In Paradise, Comfort Food With an Edge

Posted: July 31, 2014  By Harvey Steiman

Blogs  :  Harvey Steiman At Large

A Downside to Sharing Your Cellar

How to save the day when you choose the wrong bottle

Posted: July 30, 2014  By Harvey Steiman

Like many of us, my friend, let's call him Fred to protect the guilty, has acquired many more bottles of good wine for his cellar than he and his wife can possibly drink in their lifetimes. But for every bottle he gives away, he seems to get one in return. Which led to a potentially very awkward situation one night ...

Blogs  :  Harvey Steiman At Large

Tasmania Sneaks Under the Radar

Slowly, Australia's southerly island might be making inroads in the United States

Posted: July 25, 2014  By Harvey Steiman

Tasmania, already a favorite among Australian wine drinkers for its crisp Chardonnays, juicy Pinot Noirs and bright sparkling wines, has made little impact in the U.S. Most of the wineries are small, so there isn't much volume to go around, and until recently the often-tart styles have not been able to find a welcome.

Most Americans have no clue where Tassie is. Says George Galey of American Estate Wines, which has had wines from the island in its import portfolio for 20 years, "I actually used to carry a world map around with me and asked people to point out Tasmania. Restaurateurs and retailers usually pointed to Madagascar." Only off by about 5,800 miles. That's changing.

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