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Dec. 15, 2012 Issue  :  Tasting Reports

New Faces in Washington Wine

Posted: December 15, 2012  By Harvey Steiman

Dec. 15, 2012 Issue  :  Tasting Reports

Washington Succeeds

Through heat in 2009 and cooler weather in 2010 and 2011, the wines retain their appeal

Posted: December 15, 2012  By Harvey Steiman

Dec. 15, 2012 Issue  :  Features

A Perfect Match

Pinot Noir has found an American home in Oregon

Posted: December 15, 2012  By Harvey Steiman

Blogs  :  Harvey Steiman At Large

Aussie Wines and Humor on Display

Documentary details how Australia's wines emerged from derision to triumph

Posted: December 11, 2012  By Harvey Steiman

It takes a certain understanding of the peculiarly Australian sense of humor to appreciate why a documentary tracing the story of Australian wine in past few decades would be titled Chateau Chunder: A Wine Revolution. The reference to a Monty Python sketch from 1972 ridicules Aussie wines with a vulgarity that would involve tossing one's cookies.

Self-deprecating, often sharp, the dry Aussie sense of humor is one reason I enjoy knowing the country's winemakers. They are, for the most part, not full of themselves. Their effort goes into the product and spreading the word about it. Most Aussie wineries, for example, are anonymous-looking sheds, not architectural palaces. It's the wines that matter.

Blogs  :  Harvey Steiman At Large

Rough Spots for Washington 2009s

Tastings show wines with great intensity, but some with intrusive tannins

Posted: December 6, 2012  By Harvey Steiman

As Washington has come into its own as a wine source worth following, consumers have appreciated the state's prevailing style of clear, pure flavors balanced against refreshing acidity and supple textures. Now that I have tasted the majority of the 2009 vintage, what strikes me is how many wines are much more tannic than usual.

Nov. 30, 2012 Issue  :  Features

Michel Chapoutier: Around the World

A look at the Rhône vigneron’s growing portfolio of wine projects

Posted: November 30, 2012  By Alison Napjus, Harvey Steiman, Kim Marcus

Blogs  :  Harvey Steiman At Large

A Decade of Bella's Garden

First 10 vintages of Barossa Shiraz show consistency, distinction

Posted: November 28, 2012  By Harvey Steiman

In Wine Spectator's Top 100 Wines of 2012, a familiar name stands at No. 3. Two Hands Shiraz Barossa Valley Bella's Garden has made it into the Top 100 eight times, including four years in the Top 10. What's astounding is that the wine has existed only since the 2001 vintage. Recently, Two Hands proprietor Michael Twelftree offered to taste all 10 vintages of Bella's Garden with me, blind. Here are my notes and unofficial scores.

Blogs  :  Harvey Steiman At Large

Hearing Wine, Tasting Music

Conductor crosses the lines thanks to a childhood accident

Posted: November 21, 2012  By Harvey Steiman

John Axelrod tastes music and hears food and wine. As a result, he has a particular fascination for the links between music and gastronomy. He claims to be the only conductor who also ran a wine business. In the late 1990s he ran the Robert Mondavi wine center at Disneyland in Anaheim for three years. It was Mondavi's wife, Margrit Biever, who encouraged the young Axelrod, who has studied privately with Leonard Bernstein, to "take the leap of faith," as he put it, and pursue a career in music.

Today he leads the Orchestra National des Pays de la Loire in Angers, France, the Verdi Orchestra in Milan, Italy, and guest conducts throughout Europe. We chatted via Skype recently after he led a performance in Naples of Gustav Mahler's Symphony No. 5. Axelrod explained that he has a form of synesthesia, a neurological condition in which stimulation of one sensory or cognitive pathway leads to automatic, involuntary experiences in a second sensory or cognitive pathway. For Axelrod it is taste and sound, and it developed after he got mercury poisoning as a child. "The treatment created a bridge between taste and my hearing," he said.

Blogs  :  Harvey Steiman At Large

Thanksgiving Wine Advice

Give the match game a rest for this one day

Posted: November 16, 2012  By Harvey Steiman

How do you decide which wines to deploy for Thanksgiving duty? Do you fret about matching the perfect wine with each element of the meal? That way lies madness. Nah, Thanksgiving is a day for hanging out with family and friends, and saying thanks for all our blessings. Now let's watch some football and eat some turkey, gravy and sweet potatoes.

Devotée as I am of the magic that can happen when wine and food find common ground and make the other better, I don't recommend it for big meals with a table full of contrasting dishes and a crowd that can range from wine snobs to those who merely drink it for lubrication.

Blogs  :  Harvey Steiman At Large

Unexpected Wines and Matches

Sparkling ice wine, anyone? An old brut and a Syrah show well with a homecooked meal for friends

Posted: November 13, 2012  By Harvey Steiman

I am not certain how I came into possession of a 375ml bottle of Canadian sparkling ice wine, let alone how it languished in my cellar for almost a decade. Good friends were coming for dinner, and I had already chosen some fizz for before dinner and a Washington Syrah to drink with the main course. (More about those a bit later.) I wanted something light and pretty to go with the planned dessert, a rather light version of sticky toffee pudding (a cakelike British dessert).

As I rummaged through the dessert wines, my eye caught the golden label of the Inniskillin Sparking Ice Wine Vidal Niagara Peninsula 2001. Maybe it was the British Isles association (it’s named after a place in Ireland). Maybe I just figured the effervescence might lighten up the wine’s natural sweetness and make a good match with the dessert.

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