harvey steiman

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Blogs  :  Harvey Steiman At Large

Thorny Brambles vs. Sunny Fruit

Warring sides among today's wine lovers

Posted: January 22, 2015  By Harvey Steiman

The biggest divide in the wine world isn't between high alcohol and low alcohol, it's between fruit and savory. Many people shy away from the wet earth, cedar, meat and herb qualities preferred by those who go for savory styles. Most people like fruit. The contrasting 2011 and 2012 Oregon Pinot Noir vintages offer a perfect illustration.

Blogs  :  Harvey Steiman At Large

A Seminal Star Winks Out

Étoile, the restaurant at Domaine Chandon, launched an era

Posted: January 13, 2015  By Harvey Steiman

The restaurant that jump-started fine dining in Napa Valley closed Jan. 1, to be converted into an elaborate tasting room. Étoile had too much competition from the long list of great restaurants that stretch from Napa to Calistoga these days, and its operators reportedy could not reach an agreement on lease arrangements.

Blogs  :  Harvey Steiman At Large

Tickets and Tips

Changing ways to book and pay for dining out

Posted: January 6, 2015  By Harvey Steiman

Technology is changing how we book restaurant tables and pay for dinner. The people behind Alinea and Next in Chicago are making their innovative system, Tock, available to other restaurants. Per Se in New York and, when it reopens later this year, the French Laundry in Napa Valley are both switching to this system. Trois Mec in Los Angeles has been ticketing since it opened last year, and Coi in San Francisco has been using it as well.

It works like any event ticket. Pay in advance and show up at the appointed time. Walk out when you're finished.

Blogs  :  Harvey Steiman At Large

For Bubbles, Which Glass Is Best?

The in crowd avoids flutes and flat saucers for something bigger

Posted: December 30, 2014  By Harvey Steiman

With New Year's Eve approaching, Wine Spectator editor at large Harvey Steiman examines the range of wineglass options for Champagne.

Blogs  :  Harvey Steiman At Large

Rethinking Wine in Cooking

Danish chef Christian Puglisi of Relæ explains how to use wine like seasoning

Posted: December 18, 2014  By Harvey Steiman

Good cooks know that just splashing a bit of wine into a sauce or a dish as it cooks is no way to get the most out of it. What matters is how good the wine is, when and how much is added, and how long it's cooked.

In the recently published Relæ: A Book of Ideas (Ten Speed, $50), chef Christian Puglisi outlines his approach to using wine, honed working at El Bulli and Noma. At Relæ, his restaurant in Copenhagen, he uses wine directly from the bottle only for long-cooked dishes where wine must bathe the food, such as beef Bourguignon or Piemontese brasato. But for most dishes, especially sauces, he prefers to boil down the wine in advance and add it to taste.

Dec. 15, 2014 Issue  :  Tasting Reports

Washington's Sleek New Whites

Eye-opening Chardonnays star in the latest vintages

Posted: December 15, 2014  By Harvey Steiman

Dec. 15, 2014 Issue  :  Features

Decoding the Penfolds Bin Numbers

Posted: December 15, 2014  By Harvey Steiman

Dec. 15, 2014 Issue  :  Features

Australia's Icon

With Grange as its foundation, Penfolds has built the country's most respected winery

Posted: December 15, 2014  By Harvey Steiman

Blogs  :  Harvey Steiman At Large

What's in That Flavor Profile?

What a good cocktail can teach us about wine

Posted: December 11, 2014  By Harvey Steiman

These days a cocktail can be a lot more than a simple vodka-and-tonic (my go-to choice in years past). Bartenders—no, pardon me, mixologists—can do dazzling things Mr. Boston never heard of, using the same fresh and vibrant ingredients as successful chefs. And, I've noticed, these barkeeps aim for more or less the same balance of alcohol, acidity, sweetness and disparate flavors found in good wines.

Blogs  :  Harvey Steiman At Large

Chris Ringland Back in the U.S.A.

And a bit of a mea culpa from the winemaker

Posted: December 3, 2014  By Harvey Steiman

When he was the winemaking partner with Dan Philips for the ultimately ill-fated stable of Grateful Palate Australian brands, Chris Ringland learned a thing or two about how to produce really good Barossa Valley wine to sell for a lot less than you might think it should. He has now put his connections and know-how to work on a brand called CR Wines, which includes a popular $25 Shiraz made entirely from Barossa grapes.

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