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Blogs  :  Harvey Steiman At Large

Jacques Pépin, One More Time

The chefs' chef talks about TV, Julia Child and wine

Posted: November 11, 2014  By Harvey Steiman

Jacques Pépin, the chef who taught several generations of American chefs about cooking, turns 80 next year. The celebration has only just started. I caught up with Pépin while he was in San Francisco shooting his final cooking series, Jacques Pépin: Heart & Soul.

Blogs  :  Harvey Steiman At Large

Two Lands: A New Cal-Aussie Collaboration

Guess who's making wine in Australia now

Posted: November 3, 2014  By Harvey Steiman

Jacob's Creek's wine reputation rests on a popular fruit-driven style rooted in Barossa Valley and South Australia. Ehren Jordan, owner-winemaker of Failla, is a prominent member of In Pursuit of Balance (IPOB), a brigade of California wineries professing to seek lighter, more elegant expressions of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

Now Jordan and Jacob's Creek are collaborating on a new brand, Two Lands, due for release in early 2015.

Oct. 31, 2014 Issue  :  Features

Hot Spot: San Francisco: Sophisticated Noshing at Parallel 37

Posted: October 31, 2014  By Harvey Steiman

Blogs  :  Harvey Steiman At Large

Next Wave of Oregon Vineyards

Wineries finding more special sites for their Pinot Noirs

Posted: October 27, 2014  By Harvey Steiman

For Pinot Noir, the vineyard defines the potential of any wine made from its grapes. As Oregon has established itself, every winery with ambition seems to compete for access to the same well-known independent vineyards—among them Shea, Guadalupe, Hyland, Meredith Mitchell, Momtazi, Stoller, Temperance Hill and Freedom Hill. In my own tastings and on visits in Oregon recently, unfamiliar names are starting to show their moxie. Two vintners, in particular, make a point of it.

News & Features  :  News

Eric Dunham, Pioneering Washington Winemaker, Dies At 44

Generous friend and boss found dead in Oregon, reportedly from suicide

Posted: October 24, 2014  By Harvey Steiman

Blogs  :  Harvey Steiman At Large

The French Keep Coming

Big-name Burgundians have arrived in Willamette Valley

Posted: October 21, 2014  By Harvey Steiman

It was a moment of validation for Oregon wine in 1987 when Robert Drouhin, patriarch of the Beaune-based négociant firm, bought land for a vineyard in Willamette Valley. Over the years Domaine Drouhin Oregon's wines, made by his daughter Véronique Drouhin-Boss, earned a reputation for finesse and consistency.

Oct. 15, 2014 Issue  :  People

Marching to His Own Drummer

In Washington and beyond, Charles Smith Takes an eclectic approach to make wines people love to drink

Posted: October 15, 2014  By Harvey Steiman

Oct. 15, 2014 Issue  :  Features

The Winemaking Behind Charles Smith's Brands

Posted: October 15, 2014  By Harvey Steiman

Blogs  :  Harvey Steiman At Large

Riesling in Oregon

It's not just Chardonnay and Pinot Gris for white wines

Posted: October 14, 2014  By Harvey Steiman

Riesling, an off-and-on success in Oregon, has started to shine brighter in recent vintages. Of the 40 Oregon Rieslings to receive scores of 90 points or higher (Outstanding on the Wine Spectator 100-point scale), 26 have come since the 2010 vintage.

What's causing this? Partly, it's the emergence of wineries concentrating on the varietal, most notably Trisaetum (first vintage 2007). James Frey's operation makes eight different Rieslings, sorted by vineyard source and whether they're dry or off-dry, and no Chardonnay or Pinot Gris, Oregon's signature white wines.

Blogs  :  Harvey Steiman At Large

Oregon Pinot Noir on a Roll

Even 2013, which looked like a disaster, is worth a good look

Posted: October 7, 2014  By Harvey Steiman

When it happened, Oregon's 2013 Pinot Noir vintage looked like a flop. A warm growing season climaxed with a couple of heat spikes in mid-September. And then it rained. And rained. And rained some more. Some vineyards counted 9 inches of rain in a week. Most of Willamette Valley got around 4 inches. "I never saw rain so sideways here, and it hit when everything was pretty damn ripe," said Rollin Soles of Roco.

Now that the wines are ready to bottle, many 2013s I tasted last week displayed precise flavors and even the sort of delicacy that made 2010 and 2011 so charming. It all depends on how carefully the grapes were sorted and when they were picked.

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