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Blogs  :  Harvey Steiman At Large

Getting a Handle on Old Vines

Barossa's Langmeil The Freedom focuses in on 1843 Shiraz vines

Posted: March 17, 2015  By Harvey Steiman

Wine Spectator editor at large Harvey Steiman recently tasted six vintages of Langmeil Shiraz Barossa The Freedom 1843, made from some of the world's oldest producing vineyards. WineSpectator.com members can read his scores and tasting notes.

Blogs  :  Harvey Steiman At Large

Wine for Chinese Cuisine? Try Oz

Older classics shine with refined dishes

Posted: March 12, 2015  By Harvey Steiman

A myth persists that Chinese food is bad for wine. And yet, some of my most memorable wine-and-food experiences have involved Peking duck, ginger-laced steamed fish and spicy salt-and-pepper seafood. And the wines transcend the cliché choices of German Riesling and Alsace Gewürztraminer. Last week, for our annual dinner to benefit the Central Coast Wine Classic, Archie McLaren and I gathered the high bidders for our lot and some mature Australian bottles from my cellar at Hakkasan in San Francisco.

Blogs  :  Harvey Steiman At Large

Is It All in the Funk?

How "natural wines" can polarize wine drinkers

Posted: March 9, 2015  By Harvey Steiman

I love the idea of natural wines. I'm all in favor of encouraging biological diversity in soils and avoiding pesticides, something the best conventional winegrowers do, too. It's immensely appealing to think of wine fermented, aged and bottled without any intervention. Just let the grapes ferment and stopper up the result. I admire the sense of completeness and harmony that wines from these "natural" winemakers can achieve, when all goes well.

But I keep remembering the words of the late California winemaker André Tchelistcheff. Left to her own devices, Mother Nature is trying to make vinegar, he liked to say.

Jan. 31 - Feb. 28, 2015 Issue  :  News

Yellow Tail Owners Buy Peter Lehmann Wines

Posted: February 28, 2015  By Harvey Steiman

Jan. 31 - Feb. 28, 2015 Issue  :  Tasting Reports

Eight New Names to Know

Posted: February 28, 2015  By Harvey Steiman

Jan. 31 - Feb. 28, 2015 Issue  :  Tasting Reports

A Place in the Sun

Oregon succeeds in 2012 with ripe‚ elegant Pinots

Posted: February 28, 2015  By Harvey Steiman

Blogs  :  Harvey Steiman At Large

Pleasant Surprises from the Cellar

Two California wines still good long past their drink-by dates

Posted: February 27, 2015  By Harvey Steiman

I often rummage through the cellar for an older wine to open for dinner. With too many wines I expected to drink up sooner, I'll grab the last bottle remaining of something now forgotten that looked interesting when I acquired it. Two California wines with more age on them than originally anticipated turned out to be pleasant surprises at dinner this week, and with two instructive results.

Blogs  :  Harvey Steiman At Large

Seeking the Rest of Australian Wine

More wineries look to find wine drinkers in America

Posted: February 19, 2015  By Harvey Steiman

Wine Spectator editor at large Harvey Steiman visits the annual WineAustralia tasting in San Francisco to get a look at what American consumers haven't had a chance to taste, and highlights some of the best Australian wines we might be seeing soon.

Blogs  :  Harvey Steiman At Large

The Restaurant in the Cellar

Honolulu hideaway looks like the one to watch

Posted: February 13, 2015  By Harvey Steiman

Who would expect to find one of America's great restaurants hidden in the basement of a big shopping center in Honolulu? The archway entrance in the middle of the Ala Moana Shopping Center's lower parking level makes it feel like sneaking into a very fancy speakeasy. The meal I had there last week left me dazzled.

Blogs  :  Harvey Steiman At Large

Coffee and Wine, Part II

Cooking with coffee—everything but the drink itself

Posted: February 6, 2015  By Harvey Steiman

Has anyone ever put together an eight-course menu in which every dish involves coffee—and mostly without using the beans themselves or the drink made from them? Frank Kramm, the chef at Daylight Mind, my cousin's ambitious coffee bar, café, restaurant and coffee school in Kona, Hawaii, creatively pureed the coffee fruit itself to flavor a butter, burned chaff from roasting the beans to smoke roast duck, and sprinkled coffee-flavored salt over slices of raw fish. We paired the dishes with Roederer Champagne Cristal, Château Margaux, Beaux Fréres Pinot Noir and a Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise.

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