harvey steiman

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Blogs  :  Harvey Steiman At Large

Charles Smith Reinvents Substance

Washington winery with "chemical symbols" on the label returns with a new direction

Posted: July 8, 2014  By Harvey Steiman

The Washington wine label Wines of Substance was invented in 2006 by a couple of Walla Walla hotshots—Waters' winemaker Jamie Brown and Greg Harrington, founder of Gramercy Cellars. It had a promising early run. Some of the wines hit 90 points on the Wine Spectator 100-point scale. The black-and-white label design emulated the periodic table of the elements you might recall from chemistry class, assigning two-letter symbols to the grape varieties used to make the wines, priced at $14 to $20.

Blogs  :  Harvey Steiman At Large

Wine Across America: The Movie

A scattered view of those who give it all up for wine

Posted: June 27, 2014  By Harvey Steiman

American Wine Story is a fascinating, gritty and ultimately bittersweet movie about the people who give up their day jobs to make wine in unexpected places across the United States. It focuses on the story of Brooks Wines, a small but fast-growing winery in Oregon founded in 1998, and the outpouring of support from others in the industry on the untimely death of its founder in 2004.

Blogs  :  Harvey Steiman At Large

Washington's 2011 Reds Test Theories on Ripeness

Cooler temperatures and wetter weather make for starker choices

Posted: June 20, 2014  By Harvey Steiman

Ripeness and alcohol continue to polarize wine drinkers. The prevailing trend almost everywhere these days is toward more moderate levels of alcohol, but a highly vocal wing still finds too much alcohol in too many wines.

It's the sugar in the grapes, of course, that ferments into alcohol, so winegrowers are seeking ways to get enough ripeness to deliver pleasurable flavors without the sugar getting out of hand. Finding a cool climate can do it. But sometimes a cool vintage is a mixed blessing, as my recent experience sampling 2011 Washington reds demonstrates.

June 15, 2014 Issue  :  Columns

The Slippery Slope of Ripeness

Posted: June 15, 2014  By Harvey Steiman

Blogs  :  Harvey Steiman At Large

Expanding the Palate

How I first got adventurous about what to eat

Posted: June 10, 2014  By Harvey Steiman

I moved to Miami from Los Angeles in 1969 to work for the Miami Herald, my first job on a big-city newspaper. From our apartment a few blocks from the office, my wife and I strolled the neighborhood and discovered a familiar sight to former Angelenos, but unusual then in Miami. A Chinese restaurant had just opened.

Hooked, we went often, and when I became the restaurant critic at the Herald I wrote up Tiger Tiger Teahouse. It became hugely popular. Regulars, we got to know the family, who often shared with us whatever they were cooking for themselves. When James Beard came to Miami to teach a cooking class, knowing that he had been raised in Oregon by a Chinese amah, I asked Mr. Tom to cook some of the family dishes for him. Tears streamed down Beard's face as he devoured pork trotters in hoisin sauce. Just like home, he said.

Blogs  :  Harvey Steiman At Large

What's That Smell?

Even if you can't identify brettanomyces, study confirms you could love it, hate it, or not even notice

Posted: June 6, 2014  By Harvey Steiman

One sure way to start an argument when tasting with others is to decry the effects of the yeast organism brettanomyces in a wine. Someone is bound to roll eyes and proclaim the opposite. I know. It's happened to me. A lot.

But if it takes an academically trained pro to detect brettanomyces, should it matter for ordinary wine drinkers? I say it does, and here's why.

May 31, 2014 Issue  :  News

In Brief: James Cameron, Winemaker; New Management in Oregon

Posted: May 31, 2014  By Esther Mobley, Ben O'Donnell, Harvey Steiman

May 31, 2014 Issue  :  Dining Out

Dining Out in Los Angeles

Five new venues from accomplished chefs

Posted: May 31, 2014  By Harvey Steiman

Blogs  :  Harvey Steiman At Large

The Orange Kerfuffle

Or how protecting a wine district can ruffle feathers

Posted: May 30, 2014  By Harvey Steiman

Wine regions have shown vigilance in protecting their names. Years ago Champagne successfully campaigned to get people to quit applying their region's name to every sparkling wine, not just on labels but in descriptions. Chablis, Burgundy, Chianti and Tokaji did so too. Wine Australia wants the same courtesy for Orange.

Blogs  :  Harvey Steiman At Large

Authentic Sangria … Mmmmmm

For this recipe picked up on the coast of Spain, all it takes is decent red wine and fruit accoutrements

Posted: May 23, 2014  By Harvey Steiman

Memorial Day being the official start of summer eating and drinking, make this stellar recipe for sangria my contribution to your enjoyment. I watched the bartender make this version at a terrific seaside hotel in the Costa Brava of Spain last year, and it's become a warm-day favorite around our house (on those few days when late-afternoon temperatures rise in San Francisco). I watched the bartender make it enough times to glean the recipe, which I'll share with you.

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