robert camuto

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May 31, 2014 Issue  :  Features

All in the Family

A new generation arrives at St.-Emilion’s Beau-Séjour Bécot

Posted: May 31, 2014  By Robert Camuto

April 30, 2014 Issue  :  People

Portrait of a Young Négociant

A new generation is transforming Bordeaux's most misunderstood profession

Posted: April 30, 2014  By Robert Camuto

Blogs  :  Robert Camuto: Letter from Europe

The Heart of Lambrusco

Italy's fizzy red is worth your attention once again

Posted: April 7, 2014  By Robert Camuto

Trattoria La Busa, on the southern outskirts of Modena, is a window onto Emilia-Romagna's traditions: Italy's fastest cars, fantastic food and its most misunderstood wines.

Ferrari-racing memorabilia cover the walls, platters of melt-in-your-mouth salumi lap around the dining room, and the kitchen turns out delicious handmade pastas drizzled with thick traditional balsamic vinegar. And dominating the wine list is fizzy red Lambrusco. This Lambrusco is not the sweet red fizz that became Italy's most exported wine in the decades after the 1970s. It's the good stuff: dry, not-quite-sparkling, easy-drinking wine crafted from select grapes and offered at reasonable prices.

Blogs  :  Robert Camuto: Letter from Europe

Free Beppe

How Italy’s new cru labeling rules stifle Barolo traditionalists

Posted: March 24, 2014  By Robert Camuto

Giuseppe Rinaldi has always danced to his own tune. A producer of great old-school, cask-fermented Barolos, Rinaldi has been guided by his own gut and local tradition—not others' rules or expectations.

Now, Italy's wine authorities have hemmed in the maestro and provocateur at the age of 65 with a new law dictating how producers blend and label designated crus. Since the death of his father 22 years ago, Rinaldi has bucked the modern, French-influenced trend of single-cru Barolos in favor of a traditional approach of blending from different vineyards.

Blogs  :  Robert Camuto: Letter from Europe

Avant-Garde Meets Tradition on the Plate

A visit with the Italian culinary master every wine connoisseur should know

Posted: March 10, 2014  By Robert Camuto

If there were a Nobel Prize for Parmigiano cheese, Massimo Bottura would certainly be its first laureate.

For more than 20 years, Bottura, Italy's most acclaimed modern chef, has worked to perfect a signature dish founded on the belief that this famous aged cheese made near his native Modena wasn't getting the respect it deserved. "Why did we only use this incredible cheese—this symbol of our land—just to grate on pasta?" The 50-year-old Bottura, clad in chef's jacket and jeans, is nearly shouting.

Blogs  :  Robert Camuto: Letter from Europe

Uprooting France’s ‘Louvre of the Vine’

The world’s greatest collection of vinestock is in play and vignerons sound the alarm

Posted: February 24, 2014  By Robert Camuto

One of France's greatest wine treasures lies off a dead-end road on a wind-swept strip of Mediterranean coastline.

Here, Blaise Genna, 60, sporting a white handlebar mustache direct from central vigneron casting, greets wine pilgrims (scientists, viticulturists and other professionals) who come for the world's greatest collection of vine stock: 2,600 separate grape varieties—7,500 genotypes—from 50 countries.

And like any wine lover should be, I am concerned about the tentative future of the collection, caught in a lease dispute after 65 years at this site.

Blogs  :  Robert Camuto: Letter from Europe

Après-Yquem: Not Down for the Count

Alexandre de Lur Saluces has brought his exacting Sauternes methods to another family estate

Posted: February 10, 2014  By Robert Camuto

Ten years ago, when the board of Château d'Yquem fired him, president and former owner Count Alexandre de Lur Saluces was expected to fade into the Sauternes sunset.

Instead, Lur Saluces picked himself up off the mat. The 80-year-old aristocrat continues making great Sauternes a few miles away at his Château de Fargues. Here, since 2005, he has produced seven wines in the outstanding range or better by Wine Spectator. The most recently released, 2009 (97 points), sold for $170.

Not bad for a man who doesn't even consider himself a winemaker.

Blogs  :  Robert Camuto: Letter from Europe

The Son Rises at Biondi-Santi

Working solo for the first time, Jacopo takes on the challenges of running the venerable Brunello estate

Posted: January 27, 2014  By Robert Camuto

The 2013 vintage was tough for all of Montalcino, Tuscany's premier wine region. But for Jacopo Biondi Santi, it was a moment of truth.

It was the first harvest at his family's legendary estate following the death of his father, Franco Biondi Santi, this past spring at the age of 91.

"I have been harvesting here since I was eight years old, first with grandfather, then with my father," Jacopo, 63, said in his office over the winery. "This was the first time I did it alone."

Blogs  :  Robert Camuto: Letter from Europe

The Human Face of Wine

Wine's personality comes from the winemakers and grapegrowers behind the labels

Posted: January 13, 2014  By Robert Camuto

There are lots of reasons to love wine, but for me the most important reason is people. Wine is, after all, a story of humans working within the dynamics of nature, culture and history. When you put those forces together, you are bound to have tales of operatic proportions. These are the stories I love telling and will share in my new twice-monthly blog, Letter from Europe, reporting from the wine regions of France, Italy and beyond.

Dec. 15, 2013 Issue  :  Features

Touring Champagne

Northern France is home to great bubbly and a bucolic wine country that has upped its game

Posted: December 15, 2013  By Robert Camuto, Alison Napjus

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