1) Fresh, with a bracing edge to the lime, green apple and chamomile hints. Good cut on the finish. Drink now. 2,500 cases made.

2) This is losing its fruit, with a butterscotch flavor and a hollow finish. Past its prime. 3,000 cases made.

3) An interesting nose, offering ripe currant, earth and black olive. Medium- to full-bodied and silky, with lots of concentrated black fruit flavors blending with mineral on the medium finish. A clean, well-made red. Merlot, Cabernet Franc and others. Best after 2007. 900 cases made.

4) Broad and open-textured, this offers lemon, apple and peach flavors. A touch coarse, ending with a chalky sensation. Drink now through 2018. Tasted twice, with consistent notes.

A) 1998 Veuve Clicquot Brut Champagne La Grande Dame

B) 2004 Peteroa Chardonnay Central Valley Reserve

C) 2007 Fox Run Riesling Finger Lakes

D) 2003 Manincor Vigneti delle Dolomiti Cassiano