Tasting Highlights: Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon
Eleven extraordinary bottlings in a range of prices and styles
Posted: Friday, December 10, 2004
Chilean Cabernet offers a great opportunity for consumers who love the king of red grapes. Stylistically the wines are a cross between Napa and Bordeaux, offering solid fruit (though they're not as fruit-driven as Napa versions) mixed with structured notes of loam and mineral (but without the firmness of a young Bordeaux). Chilean Cabernets are generally drinkable on release, though some bottlings have the capacity to age for three to six years. These new releases include the best Don Melchor and Casa Real bottlings yet as well as a few values.
Classic Range
| Wine | Score | Price | |
|---|---|---|---|
| CONCHA Y TORO Cabernet Sauvignon Puente Alto Don Melchor 2001 | 95 | $45 | |
| This wine draws its fruit from the same Puente Alto vineyard that provides grapes for Viña Almaviva (which also rated 95 points in the 2001 vintage). The difference between the two wines is the higher percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon in the Don Melchor, along with less new wood and shorter time in oak. Gorgeous nose of black currant preserve and freshly roasted coffee with a powerful yet very silky palate of cassis, plum, blackberry, loam, mineral and dark chocolate flavors that glide through a superlong finish. Don't be deceived by its seeming accessibility though--there's some iron-clad structure underneath for the long haul as well. 91 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 9 percent Cabernet Franc. Drink now through 2012. 13,500 cases made, 6,800 cases imported. --J.M. | |||
| VIÑEDO CHADWICK Maipo Valley 2002 | 92 | $65 | |
| Sourced from a vineyard right next door to Concha y Toro's Puente Alto vineyard, this is the fourth release of this wine. This is a big, brawny tower of Cabernet power, with dark currant, loam and coffee flavors that are powerful yet lush and well-integrated. Then the fruit opens up on the finish to reveal even more depth. Impressive length and focus too. Drink now through 2008. 785 cases made. --J.M. | |||
| VIÑA SANTA RITA Cabernet Sauvignon Maipo Valley Casa Real 2001 | 92 | $65 | |
| Very dense, with espresso, bittersweet dark chocolate, dark currant and tar flavors buttressed by thick, loamy tannins. Notes of tobacco and minerals flash on the finish, which is muscular but supported by ample acidity. A brute now, so cellar. Two other samples were flawed, so beware of bottle variation. Best from 2006 through 2011. 2,000 cases made. --J.M. | |||
| ODFJELL Aliara Chile 2001 | 91 | $NA | |
| This blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Carignane and Cabernet Franc is the flagship wine for this value-oriented winery. The 2001 version is taut but ripe, with lots of plum, cassis and briar flavors offset by loam and a firm mineral underpinning. Plenty of toast too, but more than enough stuffing--just needs to flesh out a touch in the cellar. At press time, the importer had not committed to bringing in the wine; it will be a shame if they don't. Drink now through 2008. 1,460 cases made. --J.M. | |||
| VIÑA ERRÁZURIZ Don Maximiano Founder's Reserve Aconcagua Valley 2002 | 90 | $50 | |
| Solid, muscular red, with brawny black currant, dark plum, coffee, toast and cocoa notes. Lots of briar and spice on the finish, where the structure dominates for now, but there's plenty of stuffing here to warrant cellaring. Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now through 2008. 1,048 cases made. --J.M. | |||
| LOS VASCOS Le Dix Colchagua 2001 | 90 | $40 | |
| The flagship wine of this venerable winery, Le Dix had an underwhelming debut in the 1996 vintage, but now hits the 90 point mark. Since being hired in 2001, winemaker Marco Puyo has updated this winery's style, and it shows. From a parcel on the estate called El Fraile, with 70-year-old vines, this has lovely purity to its blackberry and cassis fruit, which races along loamy yet refined tannins and sweet mocha notes. Hints of briar and minerals here too. Big but elegant, with a textbook Colchagua profile. Drink now through 2007. 2,000 cases importance. --J.M. | |||
| ODFJELL Cabernet Sauvignon Colchagua Valley Orzada 2003 | 89 | $20 | |
| Lots of mocha and vanilla here, but plenty of blackberry and cassis fruit to back it up. Long and ripe on the finish, where a cocoa-powder note lingers. Rich, modern-styled Cab. Drink now through 2006. 1,255 cases made, 500 cases imported. --J.M. | |||
| VIÑA SANTA RITA Cabernet Sauvignon Maipo Valley Medalla Real Special Reserve 2002 | 89 | $18 | |
| Powerful, with lots of smoke, cedar, loam, black currant and blackberry fruit flavors. Thick, burly tannins will need to resolve a bit, but this is a fine display of Maipo Cabernet. Drink now through 2007. 30,000 cases made. --J.M. | |||
| VERAMONTE Cabernet Sauvignon Maipo Valley Reserve 2002 | 89 | $16 | |
| Fine, streamlined Cabernet here, with back currant, vanilla, coffee and loam notes that run through a well-focused, lengthy finish. Nice structure underneath as well. Drink now through 2006. 500 cases made, 400 cases imported. --J.M. | |||
| VIÑA SANTA EMA Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot Maipo Valley 60-40 2002 | 88 | $11 | |
| Nice dark, ripe fruit, with blackberry, plum and boysenberry followed by rich toast, mocha and herb notes. Long, tasty finish. Drink now through 2006. --J.M. | |||
| LOS VASCOS Cabernet Sauvignon Colchagua Reserve 2002 | 88 | $19 | |
| Nice focus to the juicy blackberry and briar flavors here, with suave toast and mocha notes and a long, dark, fleshy finish. Very tasty. Drink now through 2006. 20,000 cases imported. --J.M. | |||
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