Australian Reds Retrospective
Posted: Thursday, September 04, 2008
ELDERTON Shiraz Barossa Command 1998 Score: 99
Rich, ripe and seductive, still amazingly youthful, brimming with red plum, blackberry and guava flavors, speckled with layers of exotic spice, crème brûlée, a touch of licorice and a hint of espresso. The structure is utterly seamless, and it all comes together harmoniously. Seems like this can go for ages. 375 cases imported. HENSCHKE Shiraz Eden Valley Hill of Grace 1996 Score: 98
Ripe, complex and tremendously expressive, with a meaty character weaving through the gorgeous blackberry, mulberry, plum and exotic spice aromas and flavors, which form up into a harmonious chorus and keep singing gloriously on the long, refined and open-textured finish. 500 cases made. MOUNT MARY Quintet Yarra Valley 1999 Score: 97
Amazingly fresh and vital, offering a pure, focused beam of raspberry, red plum and blackberry fruit that picks up extra hints of cream and delicate floral notes as the finish sails on and on. Not a big wine, but this has tremendous presence and just doesn't quit on the finish. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot. 50 cases imported. PENFOLDS Shiraz South Australia Grange 1998 Score: 97
A wine of surprising subtlety for the vintage, playing its ripe cherry, red plum and herb flavors against firm tannins that have a bit of grit to them. But those lively cherry and raspberry flavors burst through, and there's a nice hint of green herbs lingering around the finish, which doesn't subside easily. 9,000 cases made. CLARENDON HILLS Astralis Clarendon 1996 Score: 96
Supple, silky and round, with some transparency to the dark plum, blackberry and exotic spice flavors, lingering gently on the long, expressive finish. Tannins are present, but nicely integrated, and the finish keeps welling up without bubbling over. Syrah. 450 cases made. BAROSSA VALLEY ESTATE Shiraz Barossa Valley E&E Black Pepper 1996 Score: 95
Rich and spicy, offering a heady mix of smoky tobacco and bittersweet chocolate character against dark plum, cherry and raspberry flavors. Silky smooth in texture, with plenty of heft underneath the soft surface and a freshness that suggests this has years to go. 4,000 cases made. BAROSSA VALLEY ESTATE Shiraz Barossa Valley E&E Black Pepper 1998 Score: 95
Beautifully expressive, this is a wine of many layers that interweave intriguingly as they play out their cherry and raspberry fruit against exotic spice and minty, earthy nuances. Impressive for its harmony and supple structure. This is just coming together, but it feels like it has many years ahead of it. 2,500 cases made. CHATEAU REYNELLA Shiraz McLaren Vale Basket Pressed 1998 Score: 95
Big, broad and rich-textured, with grippy tannins around a sluiceful of raspberry, black cherry, currant and exotic spice flavors, picking up licorice and coffee elements as the finish powers through. 8,000 cases made. CLARENDON HILLS Astralis Clarendon 1998 Score: 95
Firm in texture, with tannins that tightly wrap up the dense, focused blackberry, tar and licorice flavors, finishing with some elegance. It takes several sips to show what this has, but it comes together beautifully on the finish. Syrah. 480 cases made. JASPER HILL Shiraz Heathcote Georgia's Paddock 1998 Score: 95
Big and bold. A bit alcoholic, but brimming with sweet blackberry, blueberry and plum fruit that's seductively wrapped in silky tannins and hints of cream, coffee and exotic spices. This may not go a long way further, but it's extremely good now. 100 cases made. LEASINGHAM Shiraz Clare Valley Classic Clare 1996 Score: 95
Has lovely mint and sage character running through the generous bead of raspberry and cherry fruit that keeps its poise against the frame of fine tannins, finishing with elegant balance. This has a seamless structure and beautifully focused flavors that just don't quit. 5,000 cases made. PETER LEHMANN Shiraz Barossa Stonewell 1996 Score: 95
Crisp in texture and impressive for its intensity, depth and the way it lasts and lasts on the long, expressive finish. Has scads of ripe black plum and Damson plum aromas and flavors, shaded with sparks of licorice, pepper, black olive and star anise. It feels like this can go on forever. 2,500 cases made. PENFOLDS Shiraz South Australia Grange 1996 Score: 95
Firm in texture, with slightly gritty tannins around a gorgeous beam of black cherry, blueberry and plum flavors. This is beautifully focused and complete on the nose, but it's a bit chewy on the palate. Built for aging. Needs some rich food to balance the tannins at this point. Gets better as it warms in the glass. 10,228 cases made. BALGOWNIE Cabernet Sauvignon Bendigo 1998 Score: 94
Ripe fruit plays against earth and animal character in this smooth-textured wine, with a sense of refinement to the way it all fits together. This has grace and power in equal measure, letting its earthy flavors play out against a polished texture and a sense of sweetness. JIM BARRY Shiraz Clare Valley The Armagh 1996 Score: 94
Dark and ripe, with a polished texture and meaty flavors to go with the black plum, licorice and black pepper at the core. A big, mouthfilling, soft-textured wine, but there's a kick of acidity and a light grip of tannins to give this some serious intent on the long finish. Still needs time to settle into itself. 2,500 cases made. CHATEAU REYNELLA Shiraz McLaren Vale Basket Pressed 1996 Score: 94
Polished, ripe and supple, offering a plush mouthful of spice- and coffee-accented black cherry and plum flavors, nicely integrated so that nothing sticks out and the flavors sail smoothly over the glossy texture. The tannins frame the finish well, and it all persists impressively. 8,000 cases made. HENSCHKE Shiraz Eden Valley Mount Edelstone 1996 Score: 94
A wine of poise and intrigue for the way it balances its rich fruit and earthy, meaty character on a supple texture. Tannins are present and have a slight bite, but the richness carries the day, with dark plum flavors at the center and something like the smell of a well-aged steak lurking underneath. Not for all tastes, but this can keep you coming back for another sip. 1,100 cases made. JASPER HILL Shiraz Heathcote Georgia's Paddock 1996 Score: 94
Dark and brooding, with a delicious savory character reminiscent of baked potatoes and chives wafting through the cherry and cassis fruit, remaining open-textured and trying for transparency as the herbs and fruit fight it out on the long finish. ST. HALLETT Shiraz Barossa Old Block 1996 Score: 94
Lithe and engaging for its lovely raspberry and crème brûlée flavors that glide beautifully over a bed of fine-grained tannins, offering a sense of sweetness to the slightly puckery texture that makes this especially ingratiating. Finishes with grace and expressiveness. TURKEY FLAT Shiraz Barossa Valley 1998 Score: 94
This is powerful stuff. Firm in texture and juicy with blackberry and black cherry fruit, balanced against floral and smoky spice overtones. Picks up some welcome plum and cream flavors as the finish expands and becomes very expressive. 2,000 cases made. JIM BARRY Shiraz Clare Valley The Armagh 1998 Score: 93
Dense, tight and generous with its toasty, spicy blackberry and cherry flavors. Focused, vivid and long, with a bite of acidity to keep things feeling fresh. This stands up straight and seems ready to march on for decades. MOUNT MARY Quintet Yarra Valley 1996 Score: 93
There's some transparency to the color and a strong savory, herbal quality to the aroma, playing against pretty raspberry, strawberry and fresh mint flavors in the mouth. It all comes together for a seamless finish, which lets the flavors linger beautifully. This has charm and elegance. PENFOLDS Cabernet Sauvignon South Australia Bin 707 1998 Score: 93
Firm in texture, with an open feel--a transparency--to the red berry, cherry and herb flavors. Has an aristocratic structure, with ripe tannins and a floral quality to the finish. 17,642 cases made. WENDOUREE Cabernet-Malbec Clare Valley 1996 Score: 93
Smooth and focused, with a distinct chalky mineral note adding gravitas to the ripe plum, cassis and spicy orange peel flavors, which persist on the long, expressive finish. The tannins still have a ways to go, but the flavors are so rich, fresh and open-textured that this should just keep getting better. YARRA YERING Dry Red No. 2 Yarra Valley 1996 Score: 93
Shows some transparency in the color and delivers a zing of acidity to balance the licorice-scented raspberry, rhubarb and tobacco flavors, lingering over nicely polished tannins on the finish. Shiraz, Viognier and Marsanne. BALGOWNIE Cabernet Sauvignon Bendigo 1996 Score: 92
A heady mix of herbal character, bordering on vegetal, with lovely red cherry and raspberry fruit, which manage to keep nudging each other for pole position as the finish continues unabated. Has real presence and length, but the flavor profile won't please everyone. LEASINGHAM Shiraz Clare Valley Classic Clare 1998 Score: 92
Ripe and broad, with a big jolt of raspberry, plum and creamy spice flavors along with some floral nuances that are not unwelcome. There's a sense of crispness that tends to balance the size and brawniness of the wine, and this finishes with some finesse. 5,000 cases made. MOSS WOOD Cabernet Sauvignon Margaret River 1996 Score: 92
Rich in texture, with a strong minty note running through the black cherry and raspberry fruit, framing it all with firm tannins. The mint and fruit persist into the long, expressive finish, balancing sweet and savory. But the tannins have yet to resolve. This needs more time, but it's still youthful and vibrant. MOSS WOOD Cabernet Sauvignon Margaret River 1998 Score: 92
Smooth and succulent, offering lively acidity to balance the polished berry and spice flavors, with hints of orange peel, anise seed and celery seed wafting through the fine-textured finish. PASSING CLOUDS Shiraz Bendigo 1998 Score: 92
Dense and spicy, brimming with raspberry and rhubarb flavors, with a jolt of acidity balancing the dense texture and making this feel open and inviting. The finish lingers well against floral tannins. 800 cases made. PASSING CLOUDS Shiraz Victoria 1996 Score: 92
Fresh and vibrant, with a hint of sea air to the pure plum and berry aromas, rounding it off with a gentle touch of minerality and licorice. The tannins have a bit of crunch, but they let the fruit sail effortlessly on the finish. Graceful and not weighty. BALGOWNIE Shiraz Bendigo 1998 Score: 91
Meat, game and bright fruit flavors mingle on the nose of this dense-textured red, showing some impressive black cherry and black olive flavors that are round and generous. You just have to be tolerant of those animal flavors. PETER LEHMANN Shiraz Barossa Stonewell 1998 Score: 91
Firm in texture, with focused dark berry and cherry flavors, picking up licorice character as the finish hits with a bit more alcohol than you might want. This has plenty of power, and it's striving for grace. 2,000 cases made. ROSEMOUNT Syrah McLaren Vale Balmoral 1998 Score: 91
Has some gritty tannins, but the ripe cherry and mulberry fruit comes through prominently, adding a mocha note as the finish rolls on. Nicely put together, this is just finding a balance for itself. 2,500 cases made. ST. HALLETT Shiraz Barossa Old Block 1998 Score: 91
Ripe and spicy, this is dense with blackberry, pepper and licorice flavors, fine, firm tannins. Feels like it hasn't budged in 10 years. Some sharp acidity keeps this from getting too big or brawny, and there's a nice sense of sweetness on the finish. 500 cases made. TURKEY FLAT Shiraz Barossa Valley 1996 Score: 91
Gamy aromas are prominent at first, but this fills the mouth with ripe plum and blackberry flavors, accented with soy sauce and star anise. The meaty texture has only highly polished tannins to contend with, and the flavors last well. An expressive wine, but the gaminess is a minus. 2,000 cases made. CULLEN Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot Margaret River 1995 Score: 90
Dense in color, with a distinctly herbal character weaving through the nose, along with firm tannins supporting the currant, sage and bay leaf flavors as they linger on the long, focused, distinctly savory finish. Has presence, with fresh fruit character and harmony, but still feels like it needs time to soften the texture. YARRA YERING Dry Red No. 2 Yarra Valley 1998 Score: 90
Bright and juicy, with a strong gamy note coursing through the flavors, barging through the juicy raspberry and floral flavors. Has a silky texture underneath a layer of prickly tannins. Shiraz, Viognier and Marsanne. PENFOLDS Cabernet Sauvignon South Australia Bin 707 1996 Score: 89
Very firm with tannins, this is a chewy wine that struggles to get its savory plum and herb flavors past the layer of gritty texture. Needs much more time to soften the tannins, but this fades a bit on the finish. 5,000 cases made. ROSEMOUNT Syrah McLaren Vale Balmoral 1996 Score: 89
Shows an old wine character, with earth and forest floor notes adding interest to the stewed plum and dried berry flavors, weaving a licorice character through the fine-grained finish, which is still framed by firm tannins. 2,750 cases made. CULLEN Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot Margaret River 1999 Score: 88
Firm in texture, with a layer of gritty tannins atop pretty cherry and raspberry fruit and floral extras. This tries to be elegant, but the tannins get in the way. ELDERTON Shiraz Barossa Command 1996 Score: 88
Firm in texture, with a bitter almond edge to the ripe currant and plum flavors, the tannins poking through a bit more than you might want. Could have been affected by cork taint, but the fruit persists on the finish. 1,050 cases made. WENDOUREE Cabernet-Malbec Clare Valley 1998 Score: 86
Dried herb, straw and earth notes dominate the aromas, and the tannins clamp down hard on the raspberry and currant fruit, with a jolt of acidity on the finish. Feels awkward and out of balance, but there's a lot to this. This article appeared in the Oct. 15, 2008, issue of Wine Spectator magazine. (Subscribe today.
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