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Peas are a sure harbinger of warmer days ahead.

  Recipes:
Grilled Leek, Potato and Asparagus Salad
Seared Salmon with Mushrooms Two Ways
Risotto with Spring Peas
  See Also:
"The Fish of Choice" by Sam Gugino
"Mushrooming" by Sam Gugino
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The First Tastes of Spring

A fresh seasonal menu, with great wines to match

Laurie Woolever
Posted: Friday, March 14, 2008

There’s nothing like the day when the first spring produce arrives at the market. Tender asparagus and mushrooms, fragrant leeks, young peas and potatoes—these are harbingers of warmer weather after a long, cold winter. And of course, the melting snow and rising temperatures make a perfect excuse for a dinner party, neighborhood potluck or family gathering. We’ve created three recipes, a salad, main dish and side dish, that celebrate the best of early spring, using ingredients commonly found in your local grocery, whether there’s still snow on the ground or not. And, of course, we’ve provided suggestions for some great, food-friendly wines—Rieslings and Pinot Noirs, to be exact—that will pair well with the menu.

FIRST COURSE: Grilled Leek, Potato and Asparagus Salad, paired with Riesling

 
Don't peel your potatoes: The skin keeps the spuds from falling apart when grilled.
The recipe: This salad, a composition of lightly blanched and grilled spring vegetables tossed in a lemon- and herb-infused dressing, helps reawaken your palate after a long season of rich sauces. Leeks are a sure bet in most grocery stores, but as the weather warms, keep an eye out for ramps, which grow wild on hillsides and mountains, and would make a great substitution in this recipe (they’re delicate, so don’t blanch them—just put them directly on the grill, five minutes per side). As always, look for the freshest and most appealing produce, and make substitutions if necessary—fingerling potatoes instead of new, real baby carrots (not the precut ones in the plastic bag) in the place of asparagus, or artichoke hearts instead of leeks.

The wine: The citrus, herbal and mineral elements common to Riesling make it a natural partner to grilled vegetable salads such as this. Fine-tuning tip: If you’re pouring a wine that’s on the sweeter side, like the Snoqualmie or Pacific Rim, add a pinch of sugar or dash of honey to the dressing.

MAIN COURSE: Seared Salmon with Mushrooms Two Ways and Risotto with Spring Peas, paired with Pinot Noir

 
Take advantage of all the varieties of edible mushrooms in your market.
The recipes: Simple seared salmon gets an elegant boost from sautéed mushrooms and a silky mushroom puree that’s enlivened with just a dash of Dijon mustard. Exotic mushroom varieties are ideal for this dish, though white button or Portobello mushrooms, more broadly available, will work just as well. And, although it has a difficult reputation, don't be intimidated by risotto—all it takes is a little patience and attention. Fresh peas are ideal for this dish, but if you’re using frozen, let them sit out in a colander for a few hours before starting the dish, so they shed any extraneous moisture and don’t lower the temperature of the cooking rice when introduced to the pan.

The wine: Pinot Noir is a classic choice for pairing with salmon and mushrooms, because its relative light body, smooth tannins and bright acidity cut through the richness of the fish and the mushrooms’ earthiness. Fine-tuning tip: For a wine with more pronounced tannins, add a splash of heavy cream or a knob of butter to the finished mushroom puree, along with the mustard. A wine with some spice in its flavor profile can be nicely balanced with a pinch of smoked paprika over the finished dish.

RIESLING

Wine Score Price
ALKOOMI Riesling Frankland River 2007 89 $20
Distinctive, with a tart edge to the lime and mineral flavors, lingering on the pointed, focused finish. Drink now through 2017. 6,000 cases made.—H.S.
 
SNOQUALMIE Riesling Columbia Valley Winemaker's Select 2006 87 $8
Sweet but not cloying, showing its apple, pear and honey flavors on an open texture. Drink now. 34,000 cases made.—H.S.
 
PACIFIC RIM Riesling America Dry NV 86 $11
Crisp and refreshing, barely off-dry, with lively pear and floral flavors, veering a bit toward perfumy on the finish. Drink now. 85,000 cases made.—H.S.

 

PINOT NOIR

Wine Score Price
ANTONIN RODET Mercurey 2005 89 $22
A fruity, blackberry- and cassis-flavored red, lush and supple, with ripe tannins already submerged into the profile. Enjoyable now for its fresh fruit, but should age well too. Drink now through 2018. 4,000 cases made.—B.S.
 
EOLA HILLS Pinot Noir Oregon 2006 87 $12
Light in texture, with ripe raspberry and strawberry fruit, hinting at mint as the finish lingers gently. Drink now through 2010. 20,000 cases made.—H.S.
 
CASTLE ROCK Pinot Noir Mendocino County 2006 86 $12
Aromas of ripe cherry, tree bark and wild raspberry are elegant, stylish and balanced, with nice focus and a lingering finish. Drink now. 110,000 cases made.—J.L.

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